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Monday, June 6, 2011

FARMHOUSE TABLE~ HOW TO

It has been raining and raining and raining here...
pretty much for weeks!
Can you believe I wore my winter coat this weekend...
it's June!


California has been unseasonably cold and wet this year
so outdoor projects have taken a back seat.
But there were a couple little breaks in the rain yesterday so I ventured out
& snapped a few pics for the farmhouse table how to
that I promised you a couple. weeks. ago.
:)


I have seen so many wonderful old tables in my design books.
and wanted something rustic, warm, charming and farmhouse sweet for the patio.
Here are a couple of my inspiration pics.

Rachel Ashwell

Josephine Ryan

I wanted something
Simple.
Charming.
& shabby sweet...

On Mothers day weekend, the boys decided to build the farmhouse table for me
as a Mothers day gift.

After a trip to the hardware store to gather up supplies~ we got started.
Here's our material list:


1 12' l 4x4 (legs)
4 8' l 2x4's ( frame sides and support)
5 1x8x10 or 2x8x10 pine plank boards for the top.
Metal corner brackets
Bag of small screws (2") for attaching the top
Longer screws for securing the legs to the frame


We used standard height for the legs-
32" tall
(remember the top board adds a bit too)
The overall table measurements are
3.5' wide and 9 ' long.

We also used corner brackets that were leftover from another project
but you can buy specific corner table brackets
that are made for making tables and helping with stability
or you can use a piece of wood with the ends angled and attached to each side board
for support as well.



Since I didn't take photos while doing the project-
(bad blogger)
I am showing scrap pieces of wood for the how-to.
(Excuse my quick primitive drawing-
trying to show a top view plan)

We started by laying out the pieces of wood on the patio-
and measured the 4x4 into 4 ~ 32" sections and used chop saw to cut them.

These 4x4 pieces became our legs.


We then took 1 of the 8' long 2x4's for one of the long sides
and attached the corner brackets to the 2x and the 4x with screws.


With another 2x4x8~
cut to the width of your table and attach the corner brackets again.
(our table is aprox 44" wide- but with the 4x's on each end,
we cut the 2x4 frame end piece at about 36" each )

(Showing just 1 screw on each side- I recommend 3 on each side)

Repeat for each corner and
voila!
you have a frame!


The boys also added extra pieces of 2x4's
across the center of the frame for support of the frame
and to help keep the table stable.

Flip your frame over and admire your work so far!


The next step was to place the top planks (1x8's or 2x8's) on the frame
*Make sure that the frame boards are all the same height before adding
the top planks or you will have an uneven table top*

I am showing 1x8's here but you can use 2x8's or 10's or 12's
or whatever wood you would like for your top.


We marked the length on the planks and cut them- allowing for desired overhang.
(our top boards measured aprox. 108" long)

Individual boards may not be completely straight
or may have a bit of an indent or knot hole on one side
so just set them as you are happy with them.

Since my table was rustic in design,
I didn't worry too much about gaps or blemishes.


I wasn't sure yet if I would stain the top or paint it
so we wanted to hide the screws that hold the top to the frame.

But if you don't mind putting the screws down through the top boards
and into the frame - that is much easier.
(You can go back and fill the holes with wood fill before painting)

We put our screws in from underneath.
While under the table,
put the smaller 2" screws into the frame on an angle and go up
through the frame and into the top boards
(just make sure you have the correct length screw so
as not to come through the top.)


You can pre-drill holes for the screws to sink into and you can also use brackets
at each top board/frame board if you would like

Also if you have a second person who can push down
on the top planks while doing this- it's much easier.
*Again, just make sure the screw does not go too far and come out the top.**

You also want to secure the top on the center support bars
as well by doing the same thing.

Once the top is all secured... and your frame passes the wiggle test ...

You have a table!


From there ~ it's sanding to smooth the edges all around
priming, painting and sanding again for a bit of distressing.


I painted 3 coats of exterior semi-gloss
white paint since this table will be outdoors.

The cost was about $60 total in materials for everything.


Our table is rustic and probably not built to code~ lol!
but it is sturdy and fantastic and the boys did such a great job on it.
I had so much fun building it with them.

Loving it...
I'll share the table all styled and pretty
once the rain decides to take a decent break.

Happy Monday Everyone!


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